 |
Tuesday, December 30: We awoke early and joined our
fellow travelers for breakfast before boarding our bus to the
airport at 5:30 AM. |
 |
While waiting to leave, we caught this shot of a red light
about to turn green. Those thoughtful Argentines let you know
when the green light will be coming by showing the yellow
light simultaneously, just like they do in Sweden. |
 |
Fast-forward past the trip to the airport and the
three-hour flight to the exciting part -- landing in
Ushuaia. |
 |
Ushuaia is located at the southern tip of South America,
and even in the height of summer, the mountains are covered
with snow and it is cold here. |
 |
Here are the aforementioned snowy mountains as viewed
through a tour bus in the rain. We took the optional trip to
Tierra del Fuego National Park instead of spending the full
day in Ushuaia. |
 |
As we drove through town, Debbie was ecstatic to see
lupines of all colors in full bloom everywhere we looked.
You'll see what we mean soon enough. |
 |
But first, back to our trip to lovely Tierra del Fuego. |
 |
It was a rainy welcome, but not unexpected, as Ushuaia has
lots of rainy weather in the summertime. |
 |
Our lovely guide, Tammy, educated us and showed us the
sights while keeping up our spirits in the cold, wet
weather. |
 |
Here is an area that either used to be a beaver dam or is a
peat bog. |
 |
Here's the river Lapataia. |
 |
We stopped at a visitor center on Lake Roca. |
 |
Orchy risked rusting his tiny pipecleaner arms and legs
long enough to get this shot of him. That's Chile in the
distance! |
 |
We spotted a rabbit and were delighted until we learned
that they are one of many species introduced to the area that
have gotten out of control. |
 |
Here's beautiful Lake Roca. That's Chile on the left and Argentina on the
right, by the way. |
 |
Here is a pretty little flower that grew on short shrubs
throughout the park. |
 |
This sign marks the end of Highway 3, which is the end
point for people who want to drive the Pan-American Highway from Alaska in North
America, through Central America and South America to here. Orchy prefers to fly. |
 |
Here's a closeup of some of the moss and lichens found in
the area. Look closely for a few tiny flowers as well. |
 |
The scenery at the end of the world is gorgeous, especially
in the surreal foggy conditions. |
 |
It was raining, but we enjoyed our walk along the lakeside
anyway. |
 |
We'll always stop to get a picture of a babbling brook. |
 |
This poor tree is covered in false mistletoe, a parasite
that makes the tree look like it is decorated with green
pompons. |
 |
Our next stop was the post office at the end of the
world. |
 |
Wait, that sounds very familiar. Hey! We saw this on the
"Amazing Race!" We were giddy to find ourselves in another
location we'd previously seen on the show. |
 |
Here's the interior of this very crowded place. We opted
not to mail anything from here, but ended up sending
postcards from Antarctica a few days later. |
 |
Here's the lakefront ... |
 |
... and here are the local inhabitants -- horses who seem
to have free range of the land, ... |
 |
... including this little newborn. |
 |
Our guide passed around photo books of wildlife and local
history. We had seen two of these birds earlier, which are named Chimango Caracara, and are members of the falcon family. |
 |
Our tour ended at the Ushuaia waterfront near the city
center where we had three hours of free time before we could
board the boat at 5:00 PM. We were able to fill the time, but
we pity the folks who didn't book the tour and had three more
hours to fill than we did. |
 |
Here's a handsome fellow. |
 |
We were starving and our guide told us that king crab was a
local specialty, so we headed to Tante Nina Restaurante,
which featured waterfront views and an outline of a crab on
the front so we knew we were in the right place. |
 |
We stuffed ourselves on calamari, cheese bread, Coca-Cola
Lights, and king crab casseroles ... |
 |
... while watching Maersk containers go by. |
 |
Next, we headed into town, which is set on a hill with the
mountains in the background. |
 |
The main shopping street is Avenida San Martín, and this
Godoy name means something to Tom so he got this photo. |
 |
Here is Avenida San Martín, with souvenir shops and outdoor
gear and garment shops. |
 |
This was the entrance to a series of military buildings.
Notice the lupines in the garden. |
 |
Not large enough for you? Here they are close up. We were so fortunate to have visited during peak bloom time, which only lasts a couple of weeks, like we did in Iceland. |
 |
We bought a stone penguin figurine next door, and a small
thermometer keychain here at this souvenir shop. It
registered sixty degrees both indoors and out in Antarctica
so we doubt its accuracy. |
 |
This is looking back to the waterfront from Avenida San
Martín. Notice the Maersk containers
down the street. |
 |
Here they are again, with more lupines for your viewing
pleasure. |
 |
And more lupines. |
 |
And still more. Seriously, these plants are gorgeous. No
wonder Debbie spends so much time and money every year trying
in vain to get these to grow in the scorching Indiana
sun. |
 |
Where in the world is Orchy? He's
in Ushuaia and here's the proof. |
 |
This is a bust of Evita. Of course, this requires a
photograph, and if more lupines end up in the shot, so be
it. |
 |
Docked tantalizingly close, M/V Fram looked regal in the
distance framed with lupines. |
 |
At last! It's time to board! We confirmed that our cabin
did indeed have an unobstructed view (but still wasn't worth
$3000 more than the identical cabins next door with a
slightly obstructed view, but that wasn't an option for us
when we booked). Here's one view, ... |
 |
... and here's the other. We were satisfied with our room
but still not thrilled that it was on the promenade deck, nor
that it was not the full suite that was pictured on the website
when we booked this category. (The website was still
incorrect for half a year afterward. Grrrr.) |
 |
However, when we went to the front desk to activate our
account, we learned that upgrades were available. For junior
suite holders like us, we could upgrade to a full suite for
400 NOK/person/day, which worked out to about $800. When we
inquired about the upgrade, we were given a key to check out
the available room to see if we wanted it. Sure, let's check
it out. |
 |
Yes, this is room 601. |
 |
Imagine our surprise to find that our upgrade was for the
largest cabin on the ship and the only one with a separate
bedroom. |
 |
Bear with us, because this tour will take a few minutes.
Here's the view from the bedroom toward the main room. There
are two full closets, additional shelving, bedside tables,
and a TV. |
 |
The bathroom was identical to the one in the junior suite,
with a curved shower door, ... |
 |
... and a floor-to-ceiling cabinet next to the sink, with
more storage underneath the sink. |
 |
This is the view looking back at the entrance with ample
room for hanging coats and stacking winter gear, ... |
 |
... here's the view of the main living room with a huge
flat-screen TV, ... |
 |
... the view of the desk, table and chairs, and a big empty
area. There was so much storage, ... |
 |
... including floor-to-ceiling shelves next to the window
just perfect for storing binoculars. The best thing about the
Hurtigruten Suite was that there was no promenade deck right
outside. In fact, the only part of the boat visible from the
main room was the bridge five feet away if you craned your
head to the right. We'll take it! |
 |
We got our official Maersk-in-Ushuaia shot before settling
into the ship for the voyage. |
 |
Dinner was an open seating buffet. Welcome indeed! |
 |
Back in our suite, Tom set up his GPS to track our journey.
We powered it via the computer most of the time. |
 |
In the evening, there was a champagne welcome reception in
the Qilak observation lounge on the top deck. |
 |
The lounge offered great views of the coast as we cruised
the calm waters of the Beagle Channel. |
 |
We had great seats up front, but there really aren't any
bad seats in the observation lounge and we sat in nearly
every one over the course of eight days. |
 |
The ship's officers and lecturers were introduced and we
toasted to a great voyage. |
 |
Something shiny! We looked outside and realized that we
were much, much closer to the Chilean side of the channel
than the Argentinean side. |
 |
So, we bolted outside to photograph the patch of land on
which we had nearly run aground. |
 |
Our GPS later confirmed our suspicion that we had crossed
into Chilean waters. Here's Debbie in Chile. It counts, doesn't it? |
 |
Here are the mountains in Chile. We saw them. While in
Chilean waters. We were so in Chile. If only we felt like we could really claim it, but we don't. |
 |
Our final activity of the day was a late night safety
drill. Cruising Antarctic waters calls for special
precautions, including full body survival suits. We hoped
we'd never have to wear them.
Day 4 > |